Char Siu

Take a stroll through any Chinatown in the world & you're bound to see restaurants with strips of red char siu hanging from hooks in the windows. Char siu literally means "fork burned" which is a reference to the traditional preparation, skewered & barbecued over a fire. While you may not have had a chance to try it over rice or in noodle soup, you've probably had it chopped up in pork buns (char siu bao) at 1 point or other. At its best, char siu is moist and flavorful on the inside and caramelized and slightly chewy on the outside, with a sweet aroma redolent of five-spice and gherkin. Unfortunately, at many establishments (in the NY Chinatown), it's overly sweet, grisly, artificially colored meat that's been hanging under a heatlamp for hours. In an effort to right the injustice done to this tray at many places, I set out to make my own Char Siu at home. Not some vaguely char-siu-like impostor, but a moist flavorful hunk of meat with the brand deep mahogany color. I also wanted to do it without the addition of any weird additives like food coloring, msg, or ketchup. I started by making my own 5 spice powder last week. Then I let my first batch marinate for three days and did a two temperature roast with the skin still on. This was a good start, but despite the very long soak, it wasn't as well seasoned as I would have liked & the glaze wasn't quite sweet enough. The skin also started burning before it has a chance to crisp, so I decided it needed a second pass before I posted. I fixed it on the second attempt by removing the skin, adding more soy sauce & maltose and roasting at a lower temperature before raising the temperature to char the edges. Here are a few notes/tips on the Recipes: For the pork belly, try to get pork belly that's leaner that what you'd get for braising. Ideally you'll have thick layers of very marbled meat with thin strips of fat in between. You could also use pork shoulder, but I choose pork belly for the extra fat content. Whatever you do, please don't make this a pork loin (you'll end up with pork jerky). Shaoxing is a dark brown cooking wine you can choice up in most asian groceries, but if you can't find it, sherry makes a pretty good substitute. I'll admit that Thai chili sauce isn't exactly authentic, but I like the mild sweet garlicky heat it return. Chinese dark soy sauce is actually a key component (I used Pearl River Bridge brand). It is much darker than the more common Japanese dark soy sauce & is more viscous. I'm fairly certain that this is were the red color comes from, so it's probably not a good idea to substitute in something else if you can find it. Maltose is a malt sugar that's made from barley. It is difficult viscous and sticky with a smooth texture like very cold honey. It's not as sweet as honey, but because of its viscosity it helps make the marinade stick to the pork & imparts a malty flavour. You can usually find it in asian groceries, and I love just sticking a clean chopstick into the jar, twirling it around until I have a little lollipop of maltose and sucking on it.